Pope Benedict XVI's trip to Turkey was by all accounts, a remarkable success. It proved once again that Benedict is a pope who refuses to be pigeonholed into neat categories by popular, although quite often clueless, media pundits and talking heads. He is truly a pope that defies expectations and predictions.
The pope's visit to Turkey was covered in the press throughout the world and understandably, with particular intensity here in Rome. In the days leading up to his departure, the media focus on his visit reached a fever pitch. Only a couple days before he left, I attended the Sunday Angelus held under a brilliant, clear blue sky in St. Peter's Square. As the pope addressed us from his apartment window, he asked that our prayers might accompany him during his journey. I could sense a peculiar excitement in the air, of course, blended with more than a little concern for his safety. It was as if he was telling us, "You know how important this is; pray for me." So the Catholic world did just that, and within days, he was heading east for an encounter with the Muslim world, with our Orthodox brethren, and with history.
In order to stay informed on all the details of the trip, I made a point of picking up the local Roman newspaper every morning. Then, over a cappuccino, I pored over the various stories covering the pope's visit. As his trip progressed, I was pleased to see the positive coverage he received in the press. The initial skepticism and doubts that had peppered the pre-visit news coverage evaporated when confronted with what can only be described as a glittering demonstration of papal charm and gravitas. Before the visit, I read the snide remarks in the press reminding the world that Benedict XVI will never be a worthy follow-up to the more charismatic and media-friendly Pope John Paul II. It was a foregone conclusion that Benedict XVI was not going to win hearts in Turkey, but at the very least, it was hoped that this academic-turned-pope would "avoid causing any major offense" by sidestepping serious blunders. Expectations were low; nerves were high.
On the first day of his visit, Pope Benedict XVI honored the founder of the modern Turkish Republic, Kemal Ataturk. Dispelling the conspiracy theorist's assertion of some cryptic agenda behind his trip, the pope signed the guestbook at the Ataturk Mausoleum with a touching inscription. "I make the words of Ataturk my own: ‘peace in Turkey and peace in the world.'" By taking up the founder's words as his own, the pope immediately struck a chord with the Turkish people, who suddenly realized that, perhaps this pope isn't so dreadful after all.
The pope's second day was more personal, more spiritual. He celebrated an intimate Mass for only 250 faithful in Ephesus, at the house of the Virgin Mary and Saint John. After the Mass, as he was greeting the faithful, the Holy Father was handed a huge Turkish Flag fixed to a pole and he bore it aloft, carrying it for some time. This was not a neatly timed publicity stunt for the ever-vigilant cameras; rather, it was a genuine expression of the pope's true affection for a nation and her people.
The Holy Father then met with the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople, Bartholomew I. Both leaders renewed their commitment to seeking full unity between the two Churches and made a memorable appearance together on the balcony of the patriarch's residence; the exuberance on their faces was unforgettable. It was as though two family members had been reunited after a long time apart. In a certain sense this was the case, although the reunification was not a perfect one. Both pope and patriarch commented that their joy was also tinged with bitter sadness, that they could not yet celebrate "the sacred mysteries" together as one Church, fully united as in the first millennium of Christianity. Day two had proven to be just as much a success as the first, and there were still two more days to go.
Day three featured the pope's most highly anticipated moments, as he prepared to meet with prominent Muslim representatives. In doing so, Benedict XVI became only the second pope in history to enter a mosque. As he was being led through the famed Blue Mosque of Istanbul, his guide, the Grand Mufti Ali Bardakoglu, took him to the mihrab, the focal point in all mosques that faces Mecca. The two paused for a couple minutes of prayer and reflection. There stood the pope, spiritual leader of the world's 1.1 billion Catholics, with the Grand Mufti, together in a magnificent mosque. Both men remained motionless, with eyes closed and their minds totally absorbed in their own distinct encounter with the transcendent.
The pope's lips were quite clearly moving as he continued praying even after the Bardakoglu had finished. And this was the image from the trip that made headlines around the world. Everyone seemed surprised; but then again, what would they have expected the pope to do? Before leaving the mosque, the pope addressed Bardakoglu, "Thank you for this moment of prayer."
I read one article that quoted an anonymous Turk saying, in reference to the Holy Father, "He came here as Cardinal Ratzinger, he left as Pope Benedict XVI." But here again was a perceived disparity where, in reality, none existed. Cardinal Ratzinger is now "papa Ratzinger," as he is affectionately referred to in the Italian papers. He is the same person with the same message, yet he continues to mystify and even vex those who simply don't understand him. On the last day of his historic visit, the pope celebrated Holy Mass before heading back to Rome. The papers commented how relaxed and joyful he now looked; maybe even the pope was relieved and surprised at how well his visit had gone.
On the subsequent Saturday evening, in Saint Peter's Basilica, Pope Benedict XVI prayed vespers with the faithful, marking the beginning of Advent. I wanted to catch a glimpse of him after he had returned safely from Turkey and also, in my own way, show him my support for coming through as he did. It couldn't have been easy to go to Turkey, but he went nonetheless. As he walked by, only an arm's reach away, he looked peaceful, relaxed and happy. He then spoke about Christ, and His coming into the world to save us; in other words, the story of the Father's love for man, the history of our salvation. This is the message of Pope Benedict XVI, nothing more, nothing less, media expectations and predictions aside.
