Yesterday we celebrated the feast of St. Francis. While many will write about his life and works, I would like to take you on a walk through his hometown of Assisi.
Since most people arrive by train, let's begin here in the town of Santa Maria degli Angeli, Our Lady of the Angels. This is the first Los Angeles.
The Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli is a quick five minute walk from the train station. The church is huge, the seventh biggest in all of Christendom. Completed in 1684, the basilica was built to house and protect the tiny Porziuncola Chapel and the surrounding area.
The Porziuncola, meaning small portion, was a small piece of land with a very small chapel on it, given to Francis after his conversion. It was here where he lived and worked after founding the Franciscan Order.
The chapel was the third he restored after his encounter with the San Damiano cross, which we'll see in a bit. On Palm Sunday in the year 1212, St. Clare left her house and came to this very spot to vow her life to Christ.
The rustic chapel seems out of place in this vast, sterile basilica. Francis probably would not have approved. Still, it's a beautiful church and a beautiful dedication to the area it protects.
Directly behind and to the right of the Porziuncola Chapel is the Chapel of the Transito, that is, Chapel of Death. The Porziuncola meant so much to Francis that he asked to be brought here when he was near death. He died on the spot where this chapel stands.
Follow the signs to the Roseto, the rose garden. As the story goes, Francis was praying in his cell one night when he was tempted to abandon the life he was undertaking, he tore off his clothes and jumped into a nearby briar patch. The thorns disappeared as he touched them and a garden of thornless roses sprang into bloom. They still bloom to this day.
Now let's step outside. We're headed next to San Rufino located up the hill in the old town of Assisi. Francis would have walked, we'll take a taxi. As we drive up, we'll pass by fields of sunflowers and through groves of olives.
San Rufino is the Cathedral of Assisi. It's named for Assisi's patron saint, a former bishop and a martyr, Saint Rufino. After converting Assisi to Christianity, he was killed by drowning in a nearby river.
Inside to our right is the baptismal font used to baptize both St. Francis and St. Clare. The children of Assisi are still baptized here, though not at this font.
On the wall opposite the font, behind a grate there is a stone with footprints of the "mysterious pilgrim," who, according to tradition, asked to hold the newborn Francis after he was baptized. When he left, his footprints remained in the stone.
Through the sacristy is a small grotto where Francis used to come and meditate before he spoke at the cathedral. It's here that Clare heard and fell in love with Francis' message.
Now we'll exit the Cathedral, make a sharp left and follow the signs down to Santa Chiara.
Along the way we'll pass several nativity scenes, or presepe in Italian. St. Francis is credited with creating the first three dimensional nativity scenes, and you'll find that the churches and streets here are filled with them.
Arriving at Santa Chiara, the Basilica of Saint Clare, let's take a few minutes to look out over the valley. There in the distance is the blue dome of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Looking down at the basilica, we get an idea of how far Francis would walk between Assisi and his Porziuncola. Umbria is known as the green heart of Italy and from here, it's no wonder why. Evergreen trees line the horizon. Green grape vines stretch across the valley floor. Climbing up the hill is the silvery green of the olive groves. The ones just below us were planted by the Poor Clares 700 years ago.
Let's step inside the basilica. To our right is the Chapel of the Crucifix. Here, high above the altar, is the San Damiano Cross. In Francis' day, the cross was in the church of San Damiano, about a 15 minute walk from here. When the Poor Clares left San Damiano for their new digs here at the basilica, they brought the cross with them.
This is the cross that spoke to Francis when he was looking for direction in his life. The message: "Go and rebuild my Church which has fallen into ruin." Taking this to mean the physical church, Francis began repairing the surrounding churches that had, in fact, fallen into ruin. He would later realize that he was to rebuild The Church.
The cross we are looking at is an icon, it was meant to aid in telling a story. Many people were unable to read in the 12th century so artists had to find other ways to tell the story of Christ and spread the Gospel. This particular icon tells of the death, resurrection and ascension into glory of Jesus Christ.
I'll explain. Because this is a cross, we know that is how Christ died.
Behind Christ is a black rectangle, which symbolizes His empty tomb. His eyes are open and He looks out to the world he has saved.
The Ascension is portrayed within the circle of red near the top. You see Christ breaking out of the circle and the angels welcoming Him into Heaven. At the top you see a hand. This is the hand of God giving a benediction. And down comes the Holy Spirit.
To the right of Jesus on the cross is Mary and John. Mary's hand points to John as she takes "her son." John then looks at Mary as he "beholds his mother." On Jesus' left, Mary Magdalene, Mary the mother of James, the Centurion and his son who was healed. The Centurion holds out his right hand and with his thumb and two fingers extended, he displays a symbol of the Holy Trinity. We also see the Roman soldier who pierced Jesus' side with a lance and the soldier who offered Jesus the sponge soaked in wine. Plus fourteen angels and six unknown saints, 33 characters in all.
Let's not forget the rooster. The rooster is symbolic of two things, Peter's denial of Christ and the dawn of the Risen Christ.
The artist wanted to include everyone from the crucifixion, so even the shape of the cross represents someone. Notice the right arm of the cross tilts slightly up. This symbolizes the good thief going to Heaven, the left arm tilts slightly down meaning that the other guy did not make it.
Now, we'll exit the chapel and return to the nave of the church. Follow the other pilgrims downstairs to visit the tomb of St. Clare. In addition to her tomb we'll find some of her robes, her hair and some relics of St. Francis, including a shoe he was wearing when he received the stigmata.
From here, let's go outside and up to the main square, Piazza del Comune. Long before Francis' day this was a spiritual center. Here we're standing above the ancient Roman forum. To our right is the former Temple of Minerva, now a Catholic church, Santa Maria sopra Minerva. Inside the floors still have holes for the blood of sacrificed animals to drain. But, let's keep walking.
We'll continue through the piazza and stay to our left. We are now walking downhill towards the Basilica of Saint Francis.
The Basilica of St. Francis actually consists of two basilicas, an upper and a lower, built over his tomb.
We'll start with the upper basilica, but before we go in look back at the lawn. The bushes on the lawn spell out the word Pax, Latin for peace, and the Greek Tau. The Tau is the last letter of the Old Hebrew alphabet and was used by Francis to sign his name, symbolic of his faithfulness until the end.
As we step inside, we are stepping into the first Gothic church in all of Italy. Francis died in 1226, construction started just two years later.
The walls here are frescoed top to bottom in the work of Giotto and his assistants. Beginning near the altar and going around the nave are 28 scenes from the life of Francis. Eleven years ago a catastrophic earthquake hit the town and destroyed several of the frescos. Four people died in the upper basilica.
Now we'll wind our way downstairs into the Lower Basilica. Much darker than its upstairs neighbor, the nave is frescoed with parallel scenes from the life of Christ and Francis. Behind the altar is the relic room. Inside are his tunic, shoes and the letter from the pope legitimizing his order.
We'll continue downstairs to the tomb of St. Francis. His tomb was hidden for nearly 600 years until it was opened to the public in 1818. A steady stream of pilgrims have descended these stairs ever since.
Grab a candle for the altar; don't forget to pay for it. This is the only place in the basilica where real candles are still used. The Franciscans will light it later.
In stark contrast to the bright and airy upper basilica and the dark, yet colorful lower basilica, the chapel of the tomb seems much more fitting this saint. Stone walls, iron grates and candlelight add to ambiance.
The stone coffin we see behind the altar is the same one he was placed in at his death almost 800 years ago. He's still in there, only now his remains are inside a plexiglas casket, placed inside a metal casket, placed inside the original.
Our tour ends here. Take your time praying and meditating on the way of Saint Francis.
